The cushions come inside. The coffee stays warm. Someone puts on a record.
For ten minutes, the group watches the sky as though a sufficiently disappointed expression might change it. Then the conversation turns to lunch, and the day begins to improve.
There is plenty here for a day spent looking closely: contemporary art inside the old town walls, paintings of an earlier island, objects that have outlasted entire civilisations. Choose one museum and one good table. Leave enough afternoon to be surprised by both.






