Take the inland turning. There is a table in the sun, and the afternoon can wait.
It is easy to drive through an Ibiza village and remember only the turn you needed. Stop, and the same few buildings begin to explain one another. The church faces the tables. A shop serves several purposes. Beyond the houses, cultivated ground reaches towards the trees. What looked like a small interruption in the journey becomes a place with its own centre of gravity.
Food is often the easiest way in. A ham bocadillo at Bar Costa puts you in the social current of Santa Gertrudis. At Anita, the old mailboxes suggest how much of the countryside once passed through a single bar. In Corona, a tortilla and a terrace give the fields somewhere to lead. Sant Agustí becomes especially persuasive when you have booked dinner.
These are places to spend part of a day, with different pleasures and different scales. Pick one that makes you curious. The useful discoveries tend to happen after the first circuit of the square.






















